Hook up to water main

Tube-bending springs can fit either inside or outside a pipe. The inside springs can only be used on a pipe's ends, but they make tighter turns. Use outside springs to gently curve the middle of a pipe. Find the two front-to-back clear paths on the underside of the dishwasher—these are meant to keep the copper tubing and electrical wiring away from the motor as they run from the back of the dishwasher bay to the front of the appliance. Measure the distance from these paths to the sides of the dishwasher.

Transfer the measurements to the floor inside the bay. Note which side leads to the water hookup and which side is for the wiring. Using an outside bending spring, shape the copper pipe so it wraps down the cabinet side and along the mark for the water-pipe channel. Twist the electrical wire so that it lies in the correct path as well. Use tape to secure both to the floor in position over their marked lines. Lay down a tarp to protect the floor and tip the dishwasher on its back.

Remove the cover panel at the bottom of the unit. Wrap Teflon around the water inlet's threads. Screw a brass elbow onto the inlet. Tighten it with an adjustable wrench.

Water Main Installation & Replacement Prices

Stand the dishwasher up and push it up to the bay. Check that the water and electrical lines are properly aligned. Feed the end of the drain line from the dishwasher through the side of the cabinet and up via the unused floor hole. Then have a helper guide the drain line as you slowly slide the dishwasher in place. Using the inside bending spring, turn the copper supply to the elbow.

Cut off any excess pipe but leave 2 inches of straight copper for the compression fitting. Slide a compression nut and ferrule over the end of the pipe and hand-tighten the nut onto the inlet. Slide a cable clamp over the end of the exposed wires until it's around the plastic or metal sheathing bundling the wires together. Using a screwdriver, tighten down the clamping bracket over the sheathing to hold the wires in place.

Unscrew the star-shaped nut on the clamp, then push the wires and threaded end of the clamp through the hole in the side of the unit's junction box. Hand-tighten the nut back on the clamp from the inside of the box. Tighten the nut with pliers or a screwdriver.

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Line up like colors of wire together—white to white and black to black—and tighten them together with wire nuts. If you have Romex plastic-sheathed cable, connect the green ground wire to the dishwasher's green or bare-copper wire with a wire nut. If you're using BX cable, the armored jacket works as a ground when it's clamped to the junction box.

Wrap the exposed tip of the dishwasher's ground wire around a mounting screw on the junction box and clamp it down with the screw. Stuff the wires into the box and cover it with the metal cover plate.

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Screw the plate to the box. Slip a hose clamp over the end of the dishwasher's drain line, and push the hose over the sink drain inlet—either branching off the drain tailpiece or the side of the garbage disposer. Take care not to kink the line or wrap it around the spray hose line. Slide the hose clamp over the connection and turn the screw to tighten it down.

Wrap a loop of plumber's strapping around the drain line with enough excess to match up a pair of holes. Hold the hose and strapping against the back of the cabinet so it makes an arc that's higher than the drain inlet. Using a screwdriver, attach the strapping to the cabinet wall. Reach down and adjust the feet on the front of the dishwasher until the mounting brackets touch the underside of the counter. Open the dishwasher door. Holding a torpedo level against the inside top of the dishwasher, adjust the feet until it's level side to side. With the dishwasher level, fasten it to the underside of the countertop by driving screws through the mounting brackets.

Replace the cover panel at the base of the unit. Turn on the power and water supply. Check for leaks at the water connections over the next few hours. If any appear, turn off the water and tighten the compression fittings slightly. If no leaks appear, test-run the dishwasher. Be sure to get a built-in dishwasher, not a portable one, which uses temporary connections at a sink tap and outlet. Look for the Energy Star label on any model you buy—the criteria for dishwashers became more stringent in January This is a standard part for dishwashers and may be included in a dishwasher installation kit.

Often a larger pipe size probably plastic is used for the underground portion of the pipe, with a smaller size metal pipe at the end where the pipe comes out of the ground or extends into the basement. If all but 5 feet or so of the supply pipe is a larger pipe size, you probably don't need to replace it. In this case the larger pipe size you found underground can be used for the "New Replacement Pipe Size" when calculating a new Maximum Available GPM using the table below.

New pipe sizes larger than those shown in the table above do not result in a higher Maximum Available GPM value. However, they may help you by reducing the pressure loss, which can also be beneficial. The Sprinkler Design Tutorial will explain this. It is a measure of the maximum SAFE flow that the house water supply pipe can accommodate.

It is possible to force more water through the pipe, however doing so may cause major damage to both the pipe and house's plumbing system over time. See the tutorial on Water Hammer and Air in Pipes for more information on pipe damage. The table above is only for use in situations where the water is supplied to multiple households by a water supplier, such as a municipal water system. It is not suitable for use when water is supplied from on-site wells, streams, ponds, etc. For calculating how much water is available using an on-site pump like with a well see the Country Bumpkin webpage, for gravity flow sources see the Backwoods Water webpage.

Not all types of pipe listed are legal to use in all locations. Local building authorities regulate through building codes what type of pipe may be used. Codes change and it may no longer be legal to replace the pipe with the same type that was previously used. Local specialized plumbing stores may be able to help you with code compliance, however it has been my experience that advice on codes from larger regional and national outlets is often not correct.

I recommend that you contact your local building authorities for advice on what type of pipe to use, often this requires just a simple phone call to them. Many will also offer very valuable tips and suggestions, be sure to also ask how deep the pipe must be buried. In most places a plumbing permit is required to replace the water supply pipe or even to simply cut into it. Contact your local building authorities for details. Remember that the water supply pipe carries the water you and your family drink!

It is important to be careful not to get dirt into it when working. After completion of your work be sure to turn on all your water faucets for several minutes to flush out any dirt or other contaminates.

Water Main Installation Cost Guide | How Much To Install a Water Main?

You should sterilize the pipes before using the water from them for drinking. There are products available at plumbing stores for this. Be sure to buy the pipe sterilizer and read the instructions before you start work as you may need to put the sterilizer into the pipes before you reconnect them!

The water company has a large pipe someplace out there that is called the "water main". It is probably 6 inches or larger in diameter and located in the street or alley.

How much does it cost to install a main water line?

From the water main a smaller pipe goes to your property. This smaller pipe is referred to as a "gooseneck". At the end of the gooseneck is a shutoff valve called a "corporation stop". The corporation stop is typically installed near your property line.

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The idea is that the corporation stop marks the dividing point between you and the water supplier. The pipe coming into the corporation stop belongs to the water supplier. The pipe going out of it typically belongs to the property owner. The corporation stop is usually located in a box or at the bottom of a sleeve with a round plastic or metal cap on it. The cap may only be 4" in diameter and hard to find. Often it will be covered with dirt or grass, so you will need to poke around to find it, try probing the ground with a pitchfork, metal rake, or screwdriver.

Look for a mark engraved into the curb or street pavement indicating the location. The corporation stop will probably be buried below the frost line, so it may be several feet deep in colder areas. Call and they will come out and mark the location of the water gooseneck for you, and it's free! This is very helpful in finding the corporation stop since it is someplace on the gooseneck. That will narrow your search area.